Friday, February 1, 2013

Voulez-vous une Èclair, Mon chèri

Since Ive watched the movie Certified Copy and followed by Ratatouille, I have been feeling like a little french girl craving some awesome and oh-so-delicious pastries... When I say craving, I mean my mouth starts watering just by thinking about it... The pastry of choice was an Èclair, and not the store bought gigantour you see in your grocery aisle, which in fact would make a french pastry chef, gasp in horror, making him faint on the spot. There is nothing worst than a grocery-bought èclair, (unless you're living in France) seriously, who makes a 6 inches pastry, and call it an èclair? Especially when the chocolate isn't properly tempered and the custard seemed like it came in powder form.

I was craving for the authentic french èclair, made with Pàte à Choux and Crème Pâtissière and a properly tempered chocolate. So Ive been on the quest for the perfect èclair for about a month now. The biggest problem I found was the Choux, it keeps on deflating on me after I start cooling them and if I cook them any longer they burn. I basically had to perfect baking the Choux, before I could even start with anything else. I found out that, to be completely exact, you had to measure the Choux by weight and not by cups. Oooh the French, how they make everything seems a little bit more compliquè. Although they did refine pastry making so you gotta hand them that.

This Choux recipe, just like the French are a bit temperamental. If your oven wasn't calibrated recently you have to do a trial and error on the baking temperature, but dont fret, the recipe was made for some trial and error.

CAUTION: This recipe might produce some heartache and frustration that could make you stop baking for a couple of days.

Pâte à Choux Ingredients
Letting the Chocolate Set

125 g       Whole Milk
125 g       Water
110 g       Butter
10   g       Sugar
2     g       Salt
140 g       Flour (Sifted)
4              Extra Large Jumbo Eggs (use 5 if you have medium size ones)

Preheat the oven to 425'F. This was the case with my oven, because 400'F temperature deflates my choux, if your oven run high

Place the MILK, WATER BUTTER, SUGAR and SALT in a heavy saucepan, and bring to a simmer. Whisk the mixture to incorporate the butter and milk, so no distinction can be seen. Turn off the heat.

Dump all the FLOUR and whisk vigorously, and when I mean vigorous, I mean mix it like your happiness depends on it for 30 seconds. Which in my case it did at that moment in time. This is the only time you can remove the lumps of flour. Once this sets, you have to start again.

Once your mixture is set, place it back on the stove with low heat on. and keep stirring for 2 minutes or until the Choux forms into one complete mass.

Transfer the Choux into a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, and set on low, cool the choux for 30 seconds. *(you can do this all by hand if you wanna burn some calories to reserve some space for the èclair.)*

Add the EGGS one at a time, waiting for each one to be fully incorporated into the Choux. Stop the mixer and wipe the sides and the bottom of the bowl and mix. Add the additional eggs.

The consistency is key to the Pàte à Choux, Once all the eggs are added, lift the paddle and a V shaped ribbon must flow.

Place the Choux into a pipping bag fitted with 1 inch hole.

Pipe 3-31/2 inches onto the baking sheet, staggering the èclair to give them room to rise.

Bake at 425'F for 15 mins and Reduce the heat to 325'F and bake for 25 minutes. Do not even attempt at opening that door while the èclairs are baking.

**While the Èclairs are baking you can make the Crème Pâtissière **

COOLING THE ÈCLAIR: Place a wooden spatula to prop the oven door open and leave it to cool for 20 minutes.


Crème Pâtissière Ingredients (Custard) 

1       Cup Flour

1/2    Cup Sugar
1/4    Tsp  Salt
3       Cup Whole Milk
4       Egg Yolk
3       Tbs Unsalted Butter
2       Tsp Vanilla Exttract

Combine FLOUR, SUGAR, SALT in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Gradually add the MILK to the dry mixture. Continue whisking the mixture until it thickens.

Set the electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium speed. add the EGGS and ladle the white mixture a little at a time. Be very careful while doing this which could scramble the eggs if you put the hot mixture too much too fast.

Once the mixture is fully incorporated with the eggs, place the mixture back in the saucepan set on low heat.

Add the BUTTER and VANILLA and continue whisking until the mixture thickens.

I stop when the imprint of the whisk disappear in 4-5 seconds. Don't over thicken the custard.

A custard should have a velvety texture and melts in your mouth easily.

Cool the custard by placing it in a bowl and putting a plastic wrap on top to prevent the formation of skin.
Set at Room Temperature

Fit a pipping bag with a metal spout, filled with the custard and poke a hole on the middle of the cooled èclairs and filling them with the velvety custard.

Dip the top of the èclair on a properly tempered chocolate. A properly tempered is the key to this delicious èclair. If your chocolate wasn't tempered properly it wont ever set, and might possibly be grainy. Im getting dizzy just thinking about it... You wont have that glean on your chocolate and that oh so delicious SNAP! once you bite into them.

Heres an article for properly tempering your chocolate: How to Temper Your Chocolate.



How To Temper Your Chocolate.

Tempering chocolates isn't really that hard once you get the hand of it. Possibly trying to make it a whole bunch also helps.

A properly tempered chocolate will have a shine to them once melted, and its finger licking good if you ask me. Additionally, once set, the chocolate will have a distinctive SNAP! if you bite into it. On the other hand, a chocolate that was heated too much, will crumble than break cleanly. So why are chocolate so temperamental? Here's the science bit, so if youre not so keen on "knowing" why chocolates have to be tempered, look away... Tempering chocolates has something to do with the Beta crystals arranging properly, when chocolate is melted and cooled, there are 6 forms it can crystallized into. Unfortunately only the Beta crystallized form will give you the shiny and sharp snap that a properly tempered chocolate look like. The Beta crystals are VERY dependent on the temperature the chocolate melts in. Too much heat, and the Beta crystals are unable to form giving you either a streaky, grainy chocolate. Which in fact will never set in room temperature and will possibly bloom. *Bloom- those white-ish streaks.

Are you still there?? I hope so because here comes the fun part...

Chop your chocolates into smaller pieces, smaller pieces are easier and faster to melt

Place a glass bowl on top of a LOW simmering water.  Make sure the saucepan has no spout, melting chocolate hates moisture and if significant moisture comes in contact while its melting, it can seize on you. SEIZE- this means when the chocolate gets hard and will not melt no matter how high the temperature becomes.

Place 2/3 of your chocolate on the bowl and stir it continuously, melting chocolate loves to be stirred gently.

The temperature varies from dark, milk and white chocolate. Although if you search the web they will tell you to get a candy thermometer, and the temperatures given by different authors are also different. I only get my temperature to 109-110'F. I know some people say 115'F or lower but you have to give the thermometer some doubt for manufacturing error, 110'F is the safe point.

Once the chocolates melt, remove it from the heat and wipe the bottom of the bowl. Place 1/3 of chocolate and let it melt from the heat of the melted chocolate. Stir gently for 2 minutes.

Place the chocolate back on the heat, and with stir for a minute or so.

Voila! Perfectly tempered chocolate!

If this is your first time tempering chocolate, I suggest you do some further research.

The main brands of chocolate I always use are:

Guittard : I am i love with this chocolate, even more so than Ghirardelli. I think you can but the chips for cookies on Albertsons, or Winco. Although for baking chocolate that has to be tempered, I order it from them which cost about $80 for 8 pounds of 61% Cacao Semi-Sweet chocolates.

Another brand I really love is Callebaut its marketed about $70 for an 11 pounds Semisweet chocolate block.

I always say a fine chocolate makes a fine day. I know these chocolate seems to be on the expensive side, but its worth it and they do last for a while. So Happy Tempering!